Welcome back 2010 EcoGastronomy in Italy UNH students!

In this video:  University of Gastronomic Sciences, Emelie Buell, Sara Hartley, Sarah Jacobson, Sarah Jamieson, Shannon Jasie, Michelle Raye, Geraldine Walker, Heather Rusaw, Sofia Ramos, Alanna Duffy, Alice Yen, Kana Otowa, Emily Malnati, Paris, Rome, Torino, Venice, Cinque Terre, Barolo, and England

Remains of the Day

By ABIGAIL CARROLL  Published: November 27, 2010, New York Times

Middlebury, Vt.  THANKSGIVING is a culinary commemoration of the “Pilgrim and Indian” feast. The turkey salad, turkey soup and turkey sandwiches that have dominated our lives these last few days, on the other hand, commemorate something else: a lost way of American eating, one in which leftovers played a central role.

During the hearth-cooking era, preparing food was time-consuming and labor-intensive, and early Americans cooked with leftovers in mind. In most households, at least one meal a day was based on the remains of a previous meal. If “hasty” cornmeal pudding was on the menu for supper, breakfast might feature the same pudding sliced, fried and served with milk or molasses. If the midday dinner was stew, supper was likely stew or cold meat and potatoes derived from it, with the possibility of more for breakfast.

In some households, this recycling of meals lasted at least through the late 19th century. The morning of the grisly 1892 Lizzie Borden murders in Fall River, Mass., the family breakfasted on mutton soup and cold mutton from the day before.

Leftovers for breakfast began yielding to bread and pastry in the early- to mid-19th century, thanks to the cookstove, which made baking a more predictable affair. Health fanatics like the Rev. Sylvester Graham, who praised the virtues of fiber and questioned Americans’ addiction to meat, also helped usher in the lighter, grain-based breakfast, setting the stage for the breakfast cereal revolution. By the turn of the 20th century, there was no longer much room for leftovers at the morning meal.

Nor was there much room at lunch. During the country’s industrialization, rigid factory schedules replaced agricultural work rhythms, pushing dinner to evening and reducing the midday meal to a short, informal refueling. No longer able to go home for a hot meal, workers and schoolchildren packed lunch pails with simple, filling foods like biscuits, potatoes, sandwiches and pie. Leftovers also found themselves in lunch pails, but they could be a hassle and sometimes carried a stigma. Increasingly, workers patronized lunch wagons, cafeterias and automats, and children eventually took advantage of school lunch programs.

That leftovers carried a stigma points to their association with class status. Slaves’ diets were often supplemented by leftovers from a master’s table; domestic servants took home leftovers from employers’ tables.

While the middle class did not want to be seen eating leftovers, it also didn’t want to seem wasteful. Consequently, a generation of cookbooks taught homemakers to hide leftovers in sandwiches, disguise them with garnishes, bury them in sauces and reconstitute them as new entrees. “Remaking” leftovers was a celebrated skill, and the woman who could convert cold ham into a dainty sandwich spread, appetizing casserole or tasty soup (or direct her servant to do so) was to be praised.

With two world wars and the Depression, leftovers enjoyed a resurgence. Eating leftovers came alongside victory gardens, home canning and meatless and wheatless days as a form of kitchen patriotism. In 1918, “Foods That Will Win the War and How to Cook Them” encouraged women to turn meat remainders into soup, and cold muffins into toast. By the late 1930s, reliable home refrigerators made storing uneaten food significantly easier. No longer was it necessary to pick at the same dish for consecutive meals until it spoiled. Appliance manufacturers published cookbooks with advice on putting, as Frigidaire advertised, a “lift in leftovers.” In the 1950s, Tupperware became available, followed by Saran Wrap and Ziploc bags, and since the late 1970s, Americans have been “nuking” leftovers in microwaves for instant snacks and meals.

Though technology has eased the task of dealing with leftovers, Americans have come to depend on them less than ever. For many eaters, repurposing leftovers has become all but obsolete, thanks to processed foods with long shelf lives and countless venues for eating out.

So if you find yourself struggling to turn Thursday’s turkey into yet another meal, remember that this was how Americans once ate day in and day out — and be grateful that there will probably be a new menu starting tomorrow.

Post courtesy of Abigail Carroll. 

Abigail Carroll is writing a book on the history of the American meal.

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The Value of a Traditional New England Drink

Greetings from the University of New Hampshire!

I am Sara Hartley, a senior dual-majoring in Marketing and EcoGastronomy.  My EcoGastronomy senior capstone research project is on hard cider!

Specifically, my research is titled "Closing the Gap Between Consumer’s and Seller’s Perceptions of Hard Cider: A Study of the New Hampshire Seacoast Region." 

The general underlying question is, “How do individuals on the Seacoast value hard cider, a traditional drink of New England, and how can distributors of the product enforce these values?” In a food world, where the intimacy of food with beverage pairings produces the essence of a meal, it is amazing to see how far we reach to source the beverages.  Apples grow best in the sandy clay soils of our own backyard of New England.

With my project I propose a campaign to revitalize the spirit of hard cider and preserve the foundation of hard cider producers in this region.

I am using a survey to collect consumer's perceptions of hard cider. The survey takes 8 minutes, and my goal is to collect 500 surveys. Participation in the survey will be greatly appreciated, and you have an opportunity to win raffle prizes from Farnum Hill Orchards.  Please go to http://www.surveymonkey.com/cider to participate in the survey.  Thanks!

 If you are still wondering...what is that crazy EcoGastronomy degree? here is a fun description of the subject:

EcoGastronomy is designed to integrate three broad fields of study and practice: sustainable agriculture, regional cuisine and hospitality management, and nutrition. The goal is to provide a unique and systemic educational experience that will prepare students to flourish in the complex and holistic nature of our food community - from farm to fork to nutrition and health outcomes.  Thus, the term "gastronomy," which is defined as "the art and appreciation of preparing and eating good food," is paired with the prefix "eco," indicating that the "art and appreciation" of food cannot be separated from our agriculture, our environment and the myriad social, economic, political and ethical issues associated with food production and eating.

This post is contributed by  Sara Hartley if you have any questions. 

Don't Miss the December Gourmet Dinner - Local Food and Thinking of Others

http://www.wsbe.unh.edu/gourmetdinner

A Common Table Dec. 3rd and 4th Featuring Guest Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet Bistro
The University of New Hampshire’s Hospitality Management Advanced Food and Beverage Class will host the Gourmet Dinner: ‘A Common Table’ on Friday, December 3rd and Saturday, December 4th. The dinner will take place at Stillings, 20 Ballard Drive, Durham, NH. Hors d’oeuvres begin at 6 o’clock followed by a six course dinner at 7 o’clock.

The dinners are completely student run and serve as the capstone experience for the Advanced Food and Beverage Management course. The events have been held for over 50 years and have a strong historical presence on campus. The Gourmet Dinner is a time to slow down and get back to the table.

The students prepare the food from scratch and buy local when feasible. Area suppliers include: Beach Pea Baking Co., ciabatta rolls; Brookford Farm, green cabbage, carrots, milk, cream, eggs; Garen’s Greens at Riverside Farm, watermelon radishes, turnips; The Gelato Fiasco, local cranberry sorbet; White Gate Farm, pears; Applecrest Farm, apples; New Roots Farm, rainbow chard, chili sauce; Heron Pond Farm, scallions, onions, garlic, sweet potatoes, parsnips; Seaport Fish, haddock, Maine shrimp.                                                                                                       

  Menu

Hors d’oeuvres
BLT Crisp
House-cured Pancetta, Rainbow Chard, Tomato Chutney
Walnut Brittle, Goat Cheese, Poached Pear
Paella Stuffed Pepper
Maine Shrimp, Saffron, Peppadew Pepper
Pig On A Blanket
House-made Chorizo, Tarragon Mustard, Puff Pastry
Appetizer
Oregon Truffle Mac n’ Cheese
Mornay Sauce, Shaved Truffle
Entrée
Shepherd’s Pie
Local Lamb Dodine, Baby Turnips
Intermezzo
Cranberry Sorbet
Clementine, House-dried Cranberries
Main Entrée
Fish and Chips
Line-caught Haddock, Roxbury Russet Apple Slaw
Salad
Blue Cheese Wedge
Great Hill Blue Dressing, Radishes, Bacon Lardons
Dessert
Handmade Donuts
Zeppole, Peppermint Fudge, Tawny Hot Chocolate

Executive Chef Evan Mallett from Black Trumpet Bistro and his assistance with menu innovation, along with Dover Wine’s arrangement of excellent wine pairings.Promising a memorable evening, guests are invited to recapture warm memories of times well spent. Come in from the cold and eat a warm dinner with the company of friends, old and new at ‘A Common Table.’ All leftover food products will be made into “stone” soup by the students Sunday after the dinner and will be given to Cross Roads House in Portsmouth to feed those who also deserve a warm meal.Tickets for ‘A Common Table’ can be purchased online for $60 per person at www.wsbe.unh.edu/gourmetdinner.

The UNH Department of Hospitality Management combines business fundamentals as well as classes geared toward the service industry sector. Hands-on education proves to be a strong and integral part of the experiential and academic curriculum. The department also offers the first-ever EcoGastronomy Program, which integrates UNH’s strengths in sustainable agriculture, hospitality management, and nutrition to offer a unique academic program emphasizing the interdisciplinary, international, and experiential knowledge that connects all three fields.
The University of New Hampshire, founded in 1866, is a world-class public research university with the feel of a New England liberal arts college. A land, sea, and space-grant university, UNH is the state’s flagship public institution, enrolling more than 12,200 undergraduate and 2,200 graduate students.

Gourmet Dinner - A Common Table, December 3 & 4

The UNH Hospitality Management Advanced Food and Beverage Class is 
pleased to announce the Gourmet Dinner: A Common Table on Friday, 
December 3rd and Saturday, December 4th. A time to slow down and get 
back to the table, we invite you to recapture memories of times well 
spent. Guests will experience exceptional service and thoughtfully 
prepared foods made with honest, and often local, ingredients. 
Executive Chef Evan Mallett from Black Trumpet Bistro is assisting 
with menu innovation and Dover Wine is arranging excellent wine 
pairings. Cocktails and hors doeuvres begin at six oclock, followed 
by a six course dinner at seven oclock. For more information and to 
purchase tickets, please visit: www.wsbe.unh.edu/gourmetdinner.
Press Release for UNH Gourmet Dinner.

Fairy Rings and Mushrooms

To learn everything there is to know about mushrooms would require books, guides, attendance at workshops, shadowing an expert, joining clubs and forays, careful record keeping, and extensive study.  Knowing trees and other telltale signs, such as  "fairy rings"  and "washes",  is just as important as identifying good mushrooms from their scary, poisonous counterparts.  Once the mysterious mushroom is found the next step is enjoying its wonderful flavor in any one of countless possibilities.  From simple sautéing to making precious oils the mushroom has a maddening effect on mushroom maniacs everywhere.  Forget wine, knowing what to pair a gourmet mushroom with requires a whole other set of specialized knowledge.  Dryads saddle, morels, King Bolete, and oyster mushrooms, to name a few, all have distinct flavors and uses.  For now I will leave it to the mushroom connoisseur to entice and dazzle me with their wonderful creations.
Evan Mallett of the Black Trumpet restaurant in Portsmouth is one such expert. He was trying to come up with a name for his restaurant while on a hike near his home.  Near the summit of Mount Agamenticus, he stumbled on a meadow full of black trumpet mushrooms, and he took a knee and looked skyward in thanks.  A real life epiphany, and there was the name.   And luckily for us, Evan Mallett is the guest chef for the UNH Gourmet dinner December 3rd and 4th.  What better way to start the holiday season then relishing a spectacular culinary feat.

Post by Colleen Schriefer

Eat-In Held by Youth Food Movement at Terra Madre

Michelle Raye shares about getting involved at Terra Madre and an  article worth reading in Time magazine about the event, "The anticipation for Terra Madre and Salone Del Gusto was building since the day we arrived in Bra. As the weeks went on, all of the students at UNISG started to talk about the events that were about to unfold, and how they were going to be involved.  As “outsiders” we UNH girls were excited, but at the same time we didn’t really know what to expect. Talking to some of our new UNISG friends we were told about different workshops and events that would be happening that we should definitely attend and we were also offered the opportunity to volunteer at the Eat-In, which was being held on Saturday by the Youth Food Movement. 

             I was very excited to hear about this, as I had been looking for a way to get involved somehow. After two exhausting but fulfilling days exploring Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre, I was excited to wake up on Saturday morning, travel to Torino Lingotto, and volunteer with other students to make the eat-in a success. The eat-in was quite a success! There were over 200 attendees; from Terra Madre delegates, to students, to producers. There were also many prominent members of the media there including TIME magazine, and the Netherlands’ “delicious” magazine writers. I later found out that the event was also featured on the local channel 5 news.

             It felt great to be working hard with other students my age, some very talented chefs, and some very generous producers, to create such an inviting and joyous event. The eat-in was about food, yes, but it was about bringing different people from all over the world together to sit down and enjoy each other’s company.

            Here’s a link to the TIME magazine article featuring the eat-in, Terra Madre, and Salone Del Gusto. "

Thanks, Michelle!

In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Jumping into the middle of Shannon Jasie's description of Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre, she talks about the tremendous inspiration she received from the encounter, "To give my stomach a break and to walk off the infinite samples (from Salone del Gusto), we trekked through Torino to the Terra Madre opening ceremony.  The best way to describe this event would be call it the Food Olympics.  Each country and continent as a whole was represented with flags, among speeches, songs, and traditional dance.  The speeches were translated into a handful of languages, as eager foodies listened with open ears.  Carlo Petrini spoke last, filling us with hope and empowering us to be the change our communities need to remedy our food system.  The ceremony was quite lengthy, but it allowed for ample time to reflect on the union of people from all over the world sharing one common passion.  I couldn’t help but feel like I was part of the start of something huge.

  We made our way back to Salone del Gusto, because we somehow managed to work up an appetite listening to inspirational speeches on the topic of food.  After visiting the street foods section for a dish of the most flavorful pesto gnocchi known to mankind, I sleepily returned home to dream of pasta and canolis while I recharged for day two.

  The following day was primarily dedicated to exploring Terra Madre.  We passed through Salone del Gusto once more to fill our stomachs for the day, and found ourselves surrounded with beautiful traditional music from a quartet on a make-shift outdoor stage.  Entering the Oval where Terra Madre takes place was overwhelming, to say the least.  There were numerous tables displaying Slow Food projects, information booths, interactive activities for delegates and observers, and tons of people.  After consulting a schedule, I decided to attend a workshop on Family Farmers against GMO’s. 

 I had a little time to kill before the workshop started, so I wandered over to a gigantic tapestry filled with black writing.  As I approached, I learned that the purpose of this tapestry was to promote biodiversity and attendants of the conference were asked to write a national product produced in their country in their native tongue.  My contribution was Maple Syrup—a product that I have been missing this fall. 

  It was time for the workshop to start, and once again, we put on the translation headphones.  The guest talked for a bit about GMO’s, then opened the floor to the participants for discussion.  Through translators, a conversation began to unfold in English, Russian, German, and French, all with similar mindsets of the opposition to GMO’s, which was incredible to witness.  For the second time during this experience, I felt very privileged to be part of something so big among hundreds of people who shared a similar passion. 

 This experience has helped to continue to inspire me to work towards a non-corrupt food system.  Being surrounded by such passion reinforces the idea that I am not alone in this pursuit.  Being submersed in this energy was invigorating and refreshing, and this was an experience that I will never forget as I embark on my food endeavors."

In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Shannon Jasie and Sofia
Ramos in Turino, Italy

Sofia Ramos summarizes her experience at Terra Madre and Salone del Gusto.     "Out of all the things I learned and experienced during my time at Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre, I think the event that impacted me the most was the opening ceremony. Other people would say the closing ceremony was better, but I didn’t make it there because I was in Milan and Lake Como for the weekend. However, the amount of people who were there amazed me; I couldn’t wrap my head around how many people were so passionate about sustainable food and lifestyles. On top of that, it was incredible to see so many different ethnicities represented in one city in one weekend. I liked listening to the different speakers and their opinions and views about the modern food systems and how their countries have been affected. It was my first time hearing Carlo Petrini speak, and he gave the audience advice on ways to change our eating and lifestyle choices; much of which I have heard before.      

                The conference I attended focused on issues regarding GMO’s and family living. It was not what I expected, but it was interesting because many people stood up and shared opinions and things they were doing to make steps towards better agriculture. Topics discussed were the importance of family farms, heritage seeds, and safer biodiversity. Again, most of the things I heard were about what is going wrong in our food system, and less about the ways we can overcome long-term environmental damage and health risks related to cross-pollination and pesticide use. I was glad I attended because there were many different countries represented, and they all had similar things to say. At Salone del Gusto I got to try many things, including Iberian Ham from Spain and other cured meats; which I am very interested in. The best food and liveliest section for me was the street food area, because all the young people were there and we were able to try very typical foods from other places we wouldn’t normally visit. I tried baklava from Turkey and vegetable dumplings from an Asian place I can’t remember... oops.

Overall, my experience was a very positive one, it was exciting to be around so many people my age being there for the same reasons. I learned a lot about cuisines and specialties from different countries, along with many new products from regions in Italy as well. The only negative feedback I have is that Terra Madre and Salone could have been less exclusive. This is mainly because the resources and energy used to make this world event happen kind of goes against the basic principles of sustainability.  But anyways, Italy is AWESOME so far. "

A Beautiful Night in Italy

Walmart and the End of the Local Food Movement

Anthony Flaccavento is a commercial organic farmer near Abingdon Virginia, and a consultant on sustainable economies and food systems. He is also an External Advisor for the EcoGastronomy program at UNH.   This article is courtesy of Anthony Flaccavento. 

I had just come in from picking bell peppers when I read the news of Walmart's pledge to buy at least nine percent locally-raised foods by the year 2015. Perhaps I should have been heartened, since this represents potentially hundreds of millions of dollars in market for local farmers around the nation and world. Instead, the announcement sent me back to the pepper patch, shaking my head and wondering if this wasn't the beginning of the end of the local food movement.

The organic produce we raise -- on what used to be a tobacco farm here in Appalachian Virginia -- goes to our local farmers market, to a handful of restaurants, and to independent supermarkets in Virginia, Tennessee and neighboring states. While we're one of the biggest producers at the Abingdon farmers market, our farm's sales are but a small part of the produce and eggs reaching the shelves of several hundred supermarkets through a farmer-based network called Appalachian Harvest. Developed as a partnership with these regionally-based grocers, Appalachian Harvest has helped small growers reach large markets while securing a pretty good price for their peppers, tomatoes and other items.

Sometimes referred to as value chains, other times called "food hubs," coordinated, cooperative networks of farmers closely linked to regional markets are emerging in many parts of the country. The farmers in these networks are typically small to medium scale, often employing organic or sustainable practices; the buyers are diverse, from restaurants to public schools, universities and retailers. These food hubs, while relatively new, are beginning to take hold, improving the livelihoods of farmers and bringing fresher, healthier foods to many segments of rural and urban communities. In the process, they are also building the knowledge, relationships and infrastructure -- the "community capital" - essential to make farms more viable, food more secure and communities more vibrant and resilient.

How would Walmart fit into this emerging healthy local food system? If experience is our guide, not well at all. The purported greening of Walmart notwithstanding, the core of its business model continues to be market domination of all competitors and cheaply priced goods made possible by poor employee wages and very low prices paid to suppliers. Just ask the Vlasic Pickles company. Or Rubbermaid, or The Loveable. All three welcomed the opportunity to sell to Walmart, relinquishing other markets in order to meet the company's volume demand. But after just a few years, they found the terms of their agreements changing and the prices paid dropping. All three went out of business. If multimillion dollar companies like Rubbermaid and Vlasic can be brought to their knees by the retail behemoth, how should we expect small farmers to fare? Over the past decade, investigations of Walmart and other giant retailers in the United Kingdom and Mexico uncovered considerable evidence that suppliers were strong armed, for example by insisting on volume price discounts even when orders were small. These practices led the Mexican Federal Competition Commission to order Walmart to adopt a Code of Conduct for its dealing with vendors, while Britain's Competition Commission developed new regulations for dealing with suppliers.

If this sounds like progress towards fairer transactions with farmers and other suppliers, think again. In October, 2009, The Independent uncovered a secret memo from top brass at Asda, owned by Walmart, instructing its buyers to take advantage of its market dominance, recognizing that "suppliers are hungry for volume" and to therefore "buy for less." The memo suggested playing "good cop, bad cop" in order to extract payments and concessions from suppliers, including helping to pay for the retailer's costs related to marketing and waste. According to the Credit Research Foundation, this is part of a larger pattern, pioneered by Walmart, to push many of their costs down the supply chain using "charge backs" that cost suppliers as much as 10 percent of their total sales.

Let's be honest: Walmart's entry into organic and sustainable foods is, like everything else they do, all about market share, including the image repair needed to maintain their dominance. It seems misguided that major environmental organizations are enabling Walmart to achieve this end. As Stacy Mitchell, author of Big Box Swindle says, "How is it that activists for the public good are no longer troubled, but actually pleased about, huge concentrations of economic power?"

And that really is the bottom line. Nearly every sector of the U.S economy, certainly including food and agriculture, is increasingly concentrated, dominated by a smaller and smaller group of ever larger, place-less corporations. The local food economy has emerged as a small but rapidly growing exception, where farmers, consumers, and a range of locally rooted grocers and other markets have been diversifying local economies and revitalizing local communities. Demand for local foods from these close-to-home markets far exceeds supply in most places. The last thing local farmers, or the communities they serve need is to abandon these markets and throw their lot in with a root-less and ruthless giant.
 Thanks to Stacy Mitchell and the Institute for Local Self Reliance for help gathering research for this article.

In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Emily Malnati at Salone del Gusto

Emily Malnati writes about her first day at Salone del Gusto, "Following fellow students, we found the entrance gate to Salone del Gusto where officially dressed Italians glanced at our tickets and ushered us in.  So began our tour of three giant rooms: one filled with international venders, and two more filled with venders from northern and southern Italy.  We arrived early, so many venders were still setting up, but by mid-afternoon the exhibition was filled.  Never have I seen so many venders, so many different people, or so many different languages spoken in one place.   That in itself was amazing.  Trying to push through crowds of people who began to appear more and more primitive by the hour was not so amazing.   At one point a man oinked and made a grab for some olive-oil-soaked bread that was in front of another student.  I started to feel overwhelmed when suddenly we came upon a gelato booth.   Motioning, and mumbling “Assaggio…marscapone?” my first sample of this heavenly concoction melted away my feelings of anxiety.  It was smooth, sweet, creamy and simple; undoubtedly the best frozen dessert that I have ever had.  [I would go back for a bowl every day over the course of the next three days.] 

Wandering around in a smaller group, we asked directions to the opening ceremony of Terra Madre without great success. Per usual Italian organization, several people told us we could walk, while another said it was impossible to get to without bus.  Needless to say, we ended up spending the entire day appreciating the vast variety of exhibits. Each booth presented a slightly different offering, and it became clear that each region had their own specialty products.  I took mental notes of booths I wanted to come back to speak with, and enjoyed just about everything that every vendor had to offer: cheese, bread, sausage, sundried tomatoes, olives, honey, candy, cookies, gelato, wine, limoncello, beer and much, much more…"

In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Sarah Jacobson, Kana Otowa, Sarah
 Jamieson at Terra Madre 2010

Sarah Jamieson writes about Terra Madre highlights, "Saturday we arrived slightly late for our U.S.A. regional meeting in Terra Madre.  The room was overflowing so we snuck around to the front and sat on the floor, literally feet away from Slow Food USA President Josh Viertel and Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, among countless other “heroes of the movement”.  It was similar to a pep rally because it was so exciting and full of energy.  Carlo praised the U.S. for the great job we have done and how we are a model for the world…he alluded to future events and Terra Madres even in the U.S.!  We went to a few other workshops, one on safety, health, and taste and another about Slow Fish…where we met Alice Waters!  She came in and said a few words and when she left, we snuck out after her and snapped a picture and shook her hand…my heart was pounding.  



Sarah Jamieson, Alice Waters,
Kana Otowa

     Then at 6:00, Kana and I attended a workshop on quality and price.  I was very excited for this one because of my economics angle.  The workshop was truly fantastic; it was so worth attending.  While many of the workshops were not specific enough or focused only on problems and not on solutions—this one was not like that at all. 

            Afterwards, inspired by my liver experience (alluding to Sarah accidently trying liver the day before), I tried a plate of anchovies (a dish from Genoa), and they were delicious!  I have never even tried an anchovy at home, but these were also very different.  They were the entire fish, with a little batter, fried up (I think) and I squirted lemon over them and ate the things whole.  Yum!

            At last, Sunday, the final day of Terra Madre and Salone del Gusto.  It was sad in many ways but a relief in others, we were so tired by Sunday.  Overall, Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre were a truly once in a lifetime experience, and I feel so lucky to have been able to go to it.  I learned so much, tried so many different kinds of foods, and met a bunch of really interesting people.  The event and those four days are something I will never forget."

             

Ancient Apples in Maine

All around Maine, ancient apple trees are showing their colors. Somewhere out there, some trees have produced a few rare heirloom apple varieties that MOFGA would like to know about. You may have unknowingly seen them in your travels, perhaps not giving them much thought. But, you should. They are some of many rare local varieties that played a key role in Maine’s small scale diversified agriculture for nearly three hundred years. Listed below are some varieties and their likely general locations. We think we may have located three of them, and we are working with folks in different regions of the state to verify the discoveries.
 If you think you know the location of one of these ancient trees, please contact MOFGA Board member, John Bunker. trees@fedcoseeds.com
Variety: Carll Apple Details and likely location: The Carll apple is a classic old variety that originated in Saco. Carll originated about two hundred years ago on the farm of Elias Carll (b. 1787) near the location of the old "Heath Meeting House" in North Saco up Route 112 towards Dayton, perhaps on the Heath Road. All we know is that the Carll Apple was "a superior fruit, highly prized, and sought after for years." There is a small church where the Meeting House might have been. Look for a really ancient tree and you may have found it. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Carll Apple.
Variety: Collins Apple Details and likely location: Collins (also called "Cherryfield") is a classic old apple that originated in Cherryfield. Collins originated in 1850 on the farm of Wyman B. Collins and was largely popularized by David W. Campbell. The original tree was still standing in 1907. It was extensively grafted trees in the vicinity of Cherryfield so trees should still be standing in the area. The fruit is large, roundish-conic, yellowish green and washed and splashed on the sunny side with crimson. The flesh is greenish-white, crisp, tender, fine grained, mild and tart. It ripens late, its season being from November to February or perhaps later. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Collins (Cherryfield) Apple.
Variety: Franklin Sweet Apple Details and likely location: Franklin Sweet is believed to have orginated in Franklin County. The tree is vigorous and its spreading is productive. The fruit is large, roundish and conical, whitish yellow overlaid with crimson with stripes and spalshes of deeper crimson. This variety was a favorite with many for baking and dessert. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Franklin Sweet Apple.
See more wanted posters at http://www.mofga.org/Events/GreatMaineAppleDay/tabid/294/Default.aspx

John Bunker writes about apples for the nursery catalog for Fedco Seeds. fedcoseeds.com
Post courtesy of John Bunker.

Increasing Fresh Foods Available to Students

Last Saturday, October 2, a dozen local volunteers gathered to celebrate Dover's annual Apple Harvest Day in a unique way--making apple sauce to ensure the city's students could enjoy this favorite fall treat. Volunteers from the Dover foodservice team, Slow Food UNH, and UNH's EcoGastronomy program peeled, sliced, and cooked their way through nine bushels of apples donated by local orchards and retailers, yielding upwards of 25 gallons of apple sauce. While some volunteers were seasoned apple sauce makers, others were learning for the first time how to preserve and enjoy their surplus produce, making it a beneficial project for the volunteers as well as the students. The apple sauce in question will be available to students across the Dover school district as part of the district's school lunch program in the coming weeks. This project, which was organized with the help of EcoGastronomy and the Dover foodservice team, is the first in a series of projects aimed at increasing the amount and variety of fresh foods available to students and we hope to see these projects blossom and expand in the coming months.
Thank you as well to our area apple donors: Saunders Produce, Applecrest Farm, Butternut Farm, and Philbrick's Fresh Market!

Post contributed by Matt Benham.

Portions

The EcoGastronomy Blog will post a series of essays from our Italian counterparts at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy.  The graduate students visited us this summer and last, and we offer their perspective of our food system and the comparisons with their own.

What is “a portion” in America?

An international concept of “portion” is hard to define. What can be considered as an appropriated average meal composition? There are substantial differences between US and Italy in the way of consuming food and this is one of  those.

Above all, and once again, the cultural differences inherited from the past (and wide varieties of food supplies) delineated a more structured dietary setting. Three hundred years ago in Italy and France meals structures were based on four main courses (starter, first, second and dessert).

Nowadays Italians every day life is different: we usually eat one or two dishes per meal, choosing between first and second main course, and even if in all the Italian’s restaurants are still applying the traditional formula, it is rare to see someone having a full meal.

The first dish is typically composed by carbohydrate (pasta or soup), while the second is mainly composed by protein or/and vegetable. According to this concept, it becomes easier to consume a balanced meal, supporting a more cushy distinction of the nutritional values of food.

Having a single course can be really dangerous, especially if there is already a consistent lack of consciousness in everyday consumptions. People generally use combining different  food without thinking about their proper nutritional content; for example in the Cafeteria is “normal” to see guys eating a pizza with pasta, but both of them are carbohydrates sources, and it can not be considered an appropriated solution for one meal.

In fact, as I have noticed, in US nutritional problems became a very massive reality that involved mostly young generations. Kids are no more able to understand what they are eating and which could be the consequences of these repeated actions, constantly and for longs periods.

And again to our main point: what “size of a portion” means? How much is it supposed to be? The Italian Minister of Health defined “a portion” as: a standard measurement unit (grams) for an equilibrated consumption of food. Underlining the importance of a “reasonable” dish size, that should be enough to satisfy the consumer’s desires.

In 1957, for example, in U.S. the weight of a typical hamburger was one ounce instead of the six ounces of today. Fast Food restaurants and all restaurants in general had, and still have today, a relevant role in those changing of habits, because they offer big menu without its proportional price increasing. In this way people are use to eat more and more, not thinking about increasing calories intake.

On the contrary in Italy we have got a few restaurant that promote those kind of choices, both traditional and “nouvelle cuisine” restaurants focus their own prestige on taste instead of big amount of food. These restaurants generally offer smaller portions compared to Americans restaurants.

Thanks to the division in different courses, and the time in between them, consumers are pushed to eat slowly and less.

Is it possible to change the US trend (that is becoming an extended issues all over the world)? How?

Certainly the biggest effort has to come from Institutions, they should communicate in a more constructive way in order to redirect people nutritional life style and the future generations’ one.

Advertisements, educational courses and many other possibilities can be choose to interact with the society; everything should be controlled and approved by nutritionists, and the common final goal has to be a more rational and conscious approach to food.

Family should support these changing at home, training themselves and their children to a healthy nutritional behave; at home, in school, in restaurants, and in every day’s life people have to change radically their bad habits, especially if this goes with a sedentary life.

The biggest step should be done from the multinational companies, all the dominance that they have on the market should change in favor of an improve of a healthy life style. Governments should control their power, especially in schools, regulating and providing a good balance of unhealthy and healthy products in these places.

Get Involved! Make Applesauce for Dover School Students

Saturday, October 2, join the Dover school food service team as we cook up a giant batch of homemade applesauce for our students' lunches in celebration of Dover's Apple Harvest Day. We'll be using apples donated by area farms and retailers to cook up a favorite fall treat that will be served to students across the district, incorporating fresh, local produce into our school lunches. Students, alumni, and community members are invited to help as we peel, core, and cook our way through cases of fresh apples. Join us starting at 9:00am in the Dover High School cafeteria and check out all the Alumni Homecoming events taking place at the school. For more information, or if you would like to donate apples to this event, please contact Matt Benham at (603) 455-3303 or jmbenham@yahoo.com. We look forward to seeing you there!

Flavor, Quality, & American Menus

The Culinary Institute of America—through its Napa Valley, California Greystone campus—and the UC Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences are taking on the enormous task of uniting leaders in agriculture, food processing and the culinary arts around a common mission that values scientific and technical excellence on the one hand and artistic and aesthetic accomplishment on the other at its invitation only Flavor, Quality,& American Menus Leadership Retreat.  http://www.ciaprochef.com/strategic/pdf/fqam.pdf

This year Dan Winans was asked to share his insights as a chef and Culinary Institute of America grad working at UNH in the EcoGastronomy program   The leadership retreat was held September 8-11, 2010, at Culinary Institute of America Graystone located in St. Helena, California. Dan had the opportunity to present “Creating Regional Food Systems: The Convergence of Sustainable Agriculture and Volume Foodservice Operations” to 35 of our nation’s most
influential chefs and food service industry leaders joined by leaders in U.S agriculture, food processing and manufacturing, wine and distribution—as well as key media, representing both trade and consumer sectors. 

Dan and Amy also visited the Center For Land-Based Learning - http://www.landbasedlearning.org/ /putah.php, the Wolfskill Experimental Orchards and their National Clonal Germplasm Repository in Winters,CA - http://ucanr.org/sites/wolfskill2/The_land_and_Orchards/?email=yes

View more luscious, mouth watering picures on our EcoGastronomy Dual Major Facebook page.