In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Emily Malnati at Salone del Gusto

Emily Malnati writes about her first day at Salone del Gusto, "Following fellow students, we found the entrance gate to Salone del Gusto where officially dressed Italians glanced at our tickets and ushered us in.  So began our tour of three giant rooms: one filled with international venders, and two more filled with venders from northern and southern Italy.  We arrived early, so many venders were still setting up, but by mid-afternoon the exhibition was filled.  Never have I seen so many venders, so many different people, or so many different languages spoken in one place.   That in itself was amazing.  Trying to push through crowds of people who began to appear more and more primitive by the hour was not so amazing.   At one point a man oinked and made a grab for some olive-oil-soaked bread that was in front of another student.  I started to feel overwhelmed when suddenly we came upon a gelato booth.   Motioning, and mumbling “Assaggio…marscapone?” my first sample of this heavenly concoction melted away my feelings of anxiety.  It was smooth, sweet, creamy and simple; undoubtedly the best frozen dessert that I have ever had.  [I would go back for a bowl every day over the course of the next three days.] 

Wandering around in a smaller group, we asked directions to the opening ceremony of Terra Madre without great success. Per usual Italian organization, several people told us we could walk, while another said it was impossible to get to without bus.  Needless to say, we ended up spending the entire day appreciating the vast variety of exhibits. Each booth presented a slightly different offering, and it became clear that each region had their own specialty products.  I took mental notes of booths I wanted to come back to speak with, and enjoyed just about everything that every vendor had to offer: cheese, bread, sausage, sundried tomatoes, olives, honey, candy, cookies, gelato, wine, limoncello, beer and much, much more…"

In Their Own Words: Terra Madre 2010

Sarah Jacobson, Kana Otowa, Sarah
 Jamieson at Terra Madre 2010

Sarah Jamieson writes about Terra Madre highlights, "Saturday we arrived slightly late for our U.S.A. regional meeting in Terra Madre.  The room was overflowing so we snuck around to the front and sat on the floor, literally feet away from Slow Food USA President Josh Viertel and Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, among countless other “heroes of the movement”.  It was similar to a pep rally because it was so exciting and full of energy.  Carlo praised the U.S. for the great job we have done and how we are a model for the world…he alluded to future events and Terra Madres even in the U.S.!  We went to a few other workshops, one on safety, health, and taste and another about Slow Fish…where we met Alice Waters!  She came in and said a few words and when she left, we snuck out after her and snapped a picture and shook her hand…my heart was pounding.  



Sarah Jamieson, Alice Waters,
Kana Otowa

     Then at 6:00, Kana and I attended a workshop on quality and price.  I was very excited for this one because of my economics angle.  The workshop was truly fantastic; it was so worth attending.  While many of the workshops were not specific enough or focused only on problems and not on solutions—this one was not like that at all. 

            Afterwards, inspired by my liver experience (alluding to Sarah accidently trying liver the day before), I tried a plate of anchovies (a dish from Genoa), and they were delicious!  I have never even tried an anchovy at home, but these were also very different.  They were the entire fish, with a little batter, fried up (I think) and I squirted lemon over them and ate the things whole.  Yum!

            At last, Sunday, the final day of Terra Madre and Salone del Gusto.  It was sad in many ways but a relief in others, we were so tired by Sunday.  Overall, Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre were a truly once in a lifetime experience, and I feel so lucky to have been able to go to it.  I learned so much, tried so many different kinds of foods, and met a bunch of really interesting people.  The event and those four days are something I will never forget."

             

Ancient Apples in Maine

All around Maine, ancient apple trees are showing their colors. Somewhere out there, some trees have produced a few rare heirloom apple varieties that MOFGA would like to know about. You may have unknowingly seen them in your travels, perhaps not giving them much thought. But, you should. They are some of many rare local varieties that played a key role in Maine’s small scale diversified agriculture for nearly three hundred years. Listed below are some varieties and their likely general locations. We think we may have located three of them, and we are working with folks in different regions of the state to verify the discoveries.
 If you think you know the location of one of these ancient trees, please contact MOFGA Board member, John Bunker. trees@fedcoseeds.com
Variety: Carll Apple Details and likely location: The Carll apple is a classic old variety that originated in Saco. Carll originated about two hundred years ago on the farm of Elias Carll (b. 1787) near the location of the old "Heath Meeting House" in North Saco up Route 112 towards Dayton, perhaps on the Heath Road. All we know is that the Carll Apple was "a superior fruit, highly prized, and sought after for years." There is a small church where the Meeting House might have been. Look for a really ancient tree and you may have found it. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Carll Apple.
Variety: Collins Apple Details and likely location: Collins (also called "Cherryfield") is a classic old apple that originated in Cherryfield. Collins originated in 1850 on the farm of Wyman B. Collins and was largely popularized by David W. Campbell. The original tree was still standing in 1907. It was extensively grafted trees in the vicinity of Cherryfield so trees should still be standing in the area. The fruit is large, roundish-conic, yellowish green and washed and splashed on the sunny side with crimson. The flesh is greenish-white, crisp, tender, fine grained, mild and tart. It ripens late, its season being from November to February or perhaps later. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Collins (Cherryfield) Apple.
Variety: Franklin Sweet Apple Details and likely location: Franklin Sweet is believed to have orginated in Franklin County. The tree is vigorous and its spreading is productive. The fruit is large, roundish and conical, whitish yellow overlaid with crimson with stripes and spalshes of deeper crimson. This variety was a favorite with many for baking and dessert. Download "Wanted - Alive" poster of Franklin Sweet Apple.
See more wanted posters at http://www.mofga.org/Events/GreatMaineAppleDay/tabid/294/Default.aspx

John Bunker writes about apples for the nursery catalog for Fedco Seeds. fedcoseeds.com
Post courtesy of John Bunker.

Increasing Fresh Foods Available to Students

Last Saturday, October 2, a dozen local volunteers gathered to celebrate Dover's annual Apple Harvest Day in a unique way--making apple sauce to ensure the city's students could enjoy this favorite fall treat. Volunteers from the Dover foodservice team, Slow Food UNH, and UNH's EcoGastronomy program peeled, sliced, and cooked their way through nine bushels of apples donated by local orchards and retailers, yielding upwards of 25 gallons of apple sauce. While some volunteers were seasoned apple sauce makers, others were learning for the first time how to preserve and enjoy their surplus produce, making it a beneficial project for the volunteers as well as the students. The apple sauce in question will be available to students across the Dover school district as part of the district's school lunch program in the coming weeks. This project, which was organized with the help of EcoGastronomy and the Dover foodservice team, is the first in a series of projects aimed at increasing the amount and variety of fresh foods available to students and we hope to see these projects blossom and expand in the coming months.
Thank you as well to our area apple donors: Saunders Produce, Applecrest Farm, Butternut Farm, and Philbrick's Fresh Market!

Post contributed by Matt Benham.

Portions

The EcoGastronomy Blog will post a series of essays from our Italian counterparts at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy.  The graduate students visited us this summer and last, and we offer their perspective of our food system and the comparisons with their own.

What is “a portion” in America?

An international concept of “portion” is hard to define. What can be considered as an appropriated average meal composition? There are substantial differences between US and Italy in the way of consuming food and this is one of  those.

Above all, and once again, the cultural differences inherited from the past (and wide varieties of food supplies) delineated a more structured dietary setting. Three hundred years ago in Italy and France meals structures were based on four main courses (starter, first, second and dessert).

Nowadays Italians every day life is different: we usually eat one or two dishes per meal, choosing between first and second main course, and even if in all the Italian’s restaurants are still applying the traditional formula, it is rare to see someone having a full meal.

The first dish is typically composed by carbohydrate (pasta or soup), while the second is mainly composed by protein or/and vegetable. According to this concept, it becomes easier to consume a balanced meal, supporting a more cushy distinction of the nutritional values of food.

Having a single course can be really dangerous, especially if there is already a consistent lack of consciousness in everyday consumptions. People generally use combining different  food without thinking about their proper nutritional content; for example in the Cafeteria is “normal” to see guys eating a pizza with pasta, but both of them are carbohydrates sources, and it can not be considered an appropriated solution for one meal.

In fact, as I have noticed, in US nutritional problems became a very massive reality that involved mostly young generations. Kids are no more able to understand what they are eating and which could be the consequences of these repeated actions, constantly and for longs periods.

And again to our main point: what “size of a portion” means? How much is it supposed to be? The Italian Minister of Health defined “a portion” as: a standard measurement unit (grams) for an equilibrated consumption of food. Underlining the importance of a “reasonable” dish size, that should be enough to satisfy the consumer’s desires.

In 1957, for example, in U.S. the weight of a typical hamburger was one ounce instead of the six ounces of today. Fast Food restaurants and all restaurants in general had, and still have today, a relevant role in those changing of habits, because they offer big menu without its proportional price increasing. In this way people are use to eat more and more, not thinking about increasing calories intake.

On the contrary in Italy we have got a few restaurant that promote those kind of choices, both traditional and “nouvelle cuisine” restaurants focus their own prestige on taste instead of big amount of food. These restaurants generally offer smaller portions compared to Americans restaurants.

Thanks to the division in different courses, and the time in between them, consumers are pushed to eat slowly and less.

Is it possible to change the US trend (that is becoming an extended issues all over the world)? How?

Certainly the biggest effort has to come from Institutions, they should communicate in a more constructive way in order to redirect people nutritional life style and the future generations’ one.

Advertisements, educational courses and many other possibilities can be choose to interact with the society; everything should be controlled and approved by nutritionists, and the common final goal has to be a more rational and conscious approach to food.

Family should support these changing at home, training themselves and their children to a healthy nutritional behave; at home, in school, in restaurants, and in every day’s life people have to change radically their bad habits, especially if this goes with a sedentary life.

The biggest step should be done from the multinational companies, all the dominance that they have on the market should change in favor of an improve of a healthy life style. Governments should control their power, especially in schools, regulating and providing a good balance of unhealthy and healthy products in these places.

Get Involved! Make Applesauce for Dover School Students

Saturday, October 2, join the Dover school food service team as we cook up a giant batch of homemade applesauce for our students' lunches in celebration of Dover's Apple Harvest Day. We'll be using apples donated by area farms and retailers to cook up a favorite fall treat that will be served to students across the district, incorporating fresh, local produce into our school lunches. Students, alumni, and community members are invited to help as we peel, core, and cook our way through cases of fresh apples. Join us starting at 9:00am in the Dover High School cafeteria and check out all the Alumni Homecoming events taking place at the school. For more information, or if you would like to donate apples to this event, please contact Matt Benham at (603) 455-3303 or jmbenham@yahoo.com. We look forward to seeing you there!

Flavor, Quality, & American Menus

The Culinary Institute of America—through its Napa Valley, California Greystone campus—and the UC Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences are taking on the enormous task of uniting leaders in agriculture, food processing and the culinary arts around a common mission that values scientific and technical excellence on the one hand and artistic and aesthetic accomplishment on the other at its invitation only Flavor, Quality,& American Menus Leadership Retreat.  http://www.ciaprochef.com/strategic/pdf/fqam.pdf

This year Dan Winans was asked to share his insights as a chef and Culinary Institute of America grad working at UNH in the EcoGastronomy program   The leadership retreat was held September 8-11, 2010, at Culinary Institute of America Graystone located in St. Helena, California. Dan had the opportunity to present “Creating Regional Food Systems: The Convergence of Sustainable Agriculture and Volume Foodservice Operations” to 35 of our nation’s most
influential chefs and food service industry leaders joined by leaders in U.S agriculture, food processing and manufacturing, wine and distribution—as well as key media, representing both trade and consumer sectors. 

Dan and Amy also visited the Center For Land-Based Learning - http://www.landbasedlearning.org/ /putah.php, the Wolfskill Experimental Orchards and their National Clonal Germplasm Repository in Winters,CA - http://ucanr.org/sites/wolfskill2/The_land_and_Orchards/?email=yes

View more luscious, mouth watering picures on our EcoGastronomy Dual Major Facebook page.